What every user of lace wigs, hair extensions and extensions should know about hair grades

You often see terms like “Grade 8A”, “remy”, “virgin”, “100% human quality”, etc., when shopping for lace wigs and hair bundles or extensions… but what does it all mean? I’m going to break it down for you once and for all. By the end of this article, at least you’ll be an informed hair shopper.

Hair manufacturers have established a grading system as a simple way to categorize good quality hair from bad. Originally, the grading system was on a 3A to 5A scale. Over time it has evolved from 3A to 10A more. Let’s start from 3A and work our way up, but first you need to familiarize yourself with some terms that I will be using in this article. You’ve no doubt seen these terms before, but I’ll explain what they really mean…

• Remy – Many hair buyers are misinformed about the term “remy.” They see this term on the label and assume that the hair is of the highest quality. This is not always true. Remy refers to how the hair is harvested. Remy is hair that has been collected from various sources and graded in a way that ensures that the roots and ends travel in the same direction. Cuticles are not removed during processing and remain intact…aligned in one direction. This ensures that the hair does not get tangled or matted.
• non-remy – Obviously, the opposite of Remy. This hair is usually collected from the floor after a day of haircutting. Roots and tips do not travel in the same direction. So, to prevent matting or matting, manufacturers remove the cuticle from the hair during a process called “acid bathing.” The problem with the acid bath is not only that it strips the cuticle, but that it removes moisture from the hair, leaving it brittle and straw-like. To counteract this effect, a silicone mixture is applied to the hair, making it look healthy and smooth. However, this is only a temporary solution as the silicone will eventually wear off.
• Virgo – Hair that has never been chemically processed… never colored, never permed, never bleached, etc., you get the point.
• Raw – Just another word for virgin hair.
• Cuticle – The hair cuticle refers to the outermost part of the hair shaft. The cuticle is formed from overlapping layers of dead cells that form scales on the hair shaft. The cuticle protects the hair shaft and gives it strength.

So, with those terms out of the way, let’s move on to the hair classification system…

Grade 3A: 100% Human Grade Non-Remy Hair. “Human quality” is the key giveaway here. Let’s face it… this is the worst grade of hair you can buy. Even synthetic hair is better than this shit. The hair will have split ends and thin ends. It’s not remy so the roots and ends are aligned in all directions and it’s probably mixed with animal hair or some other type of filler. To cover up all this mess, the manufacturers put it through the “acid/silicone bath” process, so you won’t know at first glance what junk you’re about to buy. A lace front wig made with 3A hair will very quickly shed, tangle, dull, and transform into something of a rat’s nest. Consider yourself lucky if you get more than a month of use out of 3A hair.

Grade 4A and 5A – 100% non-remy human hair. One step ahead of the previous one. This hair is low to medium quality. Although it is 100% human, it is not remy so you will experience tangling and matting. It will have undergone the acid/silicone bath procedure to temporarily groom it. This hair will not look good for long… it may take 2-3 months before it too becomes a matted mess. Grades 3A, 4A, and 5A are typically the hair grades sold at your local beauty supply store. The cost of hair may be cheap, but the saying “you get what you pay for” applies here.

Grade 6A – 100% human Remy. It is remy hair, so you should experience minimal issues with tangling and matting for lengths up to 18 inches. The hair may have a lot of short hairs mixed into the pack, but nothing compared to previous grades. You can dye this hair. You should be able to take up to a medium blonde color. Anything lighter than this will have to go to the next grade. If you are inexperienced in coloring your hair, it is best to seek the help of a professional, as you may end up under- or over-processing your hair and thus ruining your hair. With proper care, you should be able to get up to 12 months of use out of 6A hair.

Grade 7A – 100% Human Remy. High quality remy hair that has all cuticles intact. You will experience minimal tangling and shedding compared to previous grades. Fewer short hairs in the pack compared to previous grades. This hair is thick and strong and can handle light dye colors like platinum blonde. With proper care, 7A hair can last up to 18 months.

8A and 9A Grade – 100% Human Virgin Remy. This is pure human hair. It may or may not have been harvested from a single donor. The hair is thicker and stronger than previous grades and has a minimum of short hairs mixed into the pack. This hair can be dyed as light as white. Easy to maintain and you should experience almost no tangling. This grade of hair is expensive, however with proper care it will last up to 2 years.

Grade 10A – 100% human virgin Remy. The cream of the crop! Harvested from a single donor. Thick, strong hair that has been lovingly cared for by the donor. Minimal short hairs and can be dyed any color. Tangle free and the best overall hair choice, especially for hair longer than 18 inches, blonde full lace wigs and general lace wigs. This hair will last 2-4 years. It is more expensive initially compared to previous grades of hair, but if you consider the turnover rate of buying lower grade hair, it may be cheaper in the long run to invest in higher grade hair weaves or wigs.

There you have it. Although there may be slightly different grade numbers assigned to hair strands depending on the manufacturer, for example… a grade 8 manufacturer may be another grade 10 manufacturer. However, the definitions of hair types remain the same. .

Most of the hair manufacturers are based in China and it is a very competitive market. Be aware that there are many manufacturers who use misleading labels on their products. They can label their lace wigs gold hair bundles as remy hair when in fact it is not remy. They get away with it because there is very little regulation of the hair industry in China. However, one indicator you can use to assess deceptive marketing is the price of the product. Remy hair is much more expensive than non-Remy hair, so if the price seems too low for the product being advertised, be suspicious!